Exfoliation or peeling allows you to get rid of stretch marks, wrinkles, scars, traces of chickenpox and blackheads on your face in 2-3 sessions. The procedure starts the process of cell regeneration in the basal layers of the skin, which leads to a partial or complete renewal of the skin. As a result, the signs of aging are eliminated, the color and structure of the epidermis improves.
What is acid peeling?
This is a cosmetic procedure for skin rejuvenation by exposure to one or more acids of various concentrations.The composition of the chemical solution is determined by the doctor depending on the existing problems and contraindications.
After application to the problem area, the acid solution penetrates the skin and causes a burn. As a result, the body gives a response, a protective reaction - it starts the regeneration processes at the cellular and molecular level. Active proliferation of cells begins, peeling, desquamation of the epithelium.The production of elastin, collagen is activated, a natural renewal of the skin occurs.
Allowed type of facial exfoliation depending on age:
- 14-19 years old - cleaning with peeling scrubs with low concentrated fruit acids (only with severe inflammation, acne);
- 25-35 years old - median peeling using surface AHA-acids (20% fruit, glycolic and almond, 1% trichloroacetic (TCA), 10% salicylic);
- 35-50 years old - median peeling using 20-30% trichloroacetic and salicylic acids;
- 50 years and older - deep exfoliation with phenolic acid.
How often can acidic face exfoliation be performed:
- phenolic - 1-3 times in a lifetime;
- middle - once a year;
- superficial - with normal and combination skin type 1-2 p. / week., with dry - 1 p. / 2 weeks., With oily, problematic - 2 p. / week.
Facial skin problems in which exfoliation is recommended:
- decrease in elasticity;
- expression and age wrinkles;
- color deterioration;
- inflammatory rashes;
- seborrheic dermatitis;
- traces of acne, blackheads, chickenpox, acne;
- dry skin, a constant feeling of tightness;
- stretch marks after a change in body weight;
- shallow scars, scars;
- problematic, oily skin type;
- thickening of the stratum corneum of cells;
- enlarged pores.
Conditions and diseases in which acid peeling cannot be done:
- pregnancy, lactation;
- allergy to one of the components of the exfoliator;
- inflamed acne rashes;
- chronic diseases of internal systems, organs;
- infectious diseases accompanied by high fever;
- open wounds, abscesses, burns;
- oncological diseases;
- thinning, severe irritation of the skin;
- the period after cosmetic procedures that injure the skin (for example, laser rejuvenation);
- psoriasis, keloid scars and a tendency to their formation;
- the accumulation of many large moles, warts in the area where the acid composition will be applied;
- fresh tan (natural, artificial);
- taking psychotropic drugs.
Advantages and disadvantages
The benefits of face peeling:
- improving the color, structure of the skin;
- elimination of potholes from acne, acne, scars, striae;
- treatment of rosacea, rosacea;
- cleaning and narrowing of pores;
- the launch of regenerative processes in tissues, cells;
- elimination of age spots;
- exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the epidermis;
- normalization of sebum production;
- skin tightening and rejuvenation, improved face relief.
Disadvantages of acid peeling:
- long healing period after mid and deep cleansing;
- possible side effects and complications with improper peeling, selection of the wrong solution;
- painful sensations;
- toxicity when using a phenol formulation;
- lightening with dark or darkening of fair skin;
- increased sensitivity to UV rays;
- strong, prolonged redness of certain areas of the skin due to vasodilation.
Depending on the depth of penetration into the skin, acid peeling is divided into 3 types:
- Surface - affects the upper layers of the skin (epidermis), helps to cleanse, renew, eliminate wrinkles. For the procedure, weak acids are used - fruit, lactic, salicylic, pyruvic. Depending on their concentration, the upper layers of cells are removed partially or completely. A surface peeling session is painless, does not provoke burns. It can be carried out in the cabin and at home.
- Median - carried out using trichloroacetic, retinoic acids. It affects the epidermis and the second layer of the skin (dermis), burning it. It gives a pronounced anti-aging effect, eliminates deep wrinkles, scars, scars, age spots, evens out the face relief. Median peeling is carried out only by specialists in the cosmetology office.
- Deep - affects all layers of the skin, up to the basal. It is carried out only by specialists in a clinical setting with the help of highly concentrated phenolic acid, which provokes a severe burn. The rehabilitation period after the session is 1-3 weeks. After deep exfoliation, wrinkles, scars, scars, striae, traces of smallpox and chickenpox disappear.
Professional face peels with acids
Shop and pharmacy face peels have a balanced composition, which in addition to acids includes vitamins and plant extracts. Means have several properties - regenerating, exfoliating, antioxidant, moisturizing, antiseptic.
Cream-peeling ISIS Pharma Glyco-A
Surface glycol peeling at home can be done using Glyco-A cream from the French company ISIS Pharma. The product is intended for women from 25 to 40 years old. It consists of 12% glycolic acid (glycolic acid), which has a sparing effect on the skin.
Glyco-A evens the tone of the face, improves the structure, the relief of the skin, normalizes the function of the sebaceous glands, smoothes out small scars. The course of use is 4 weeks. The average cost of Glyco-A peeling cream is 890 rubles per 30 ml.
MI&KO Poppy Acid
MI&KO Mac series product for surface acid exfoliation of the face. The composition of the product includes salicylic, citric and lactic acids, as well as poppy seed oil, which helps to restore the protective function of the skin.
MI&KO acid peeling cleans and tightens pores, removes greasy shine, evens out the skin texture, improves its elasticity, and exfoliates the stratum corneum. The product is suitable for all skin types. Its average cost is 380 rubles per 30 ml.
Skinlite with fruit acids
The exfoliating gel peeling "Apple and Grapes" from the Korean company Skinlite cleanses and softens the skin, activates the function of cell regeneration, eliminates small wrinkles. The gel contains extracts of apple, grapefruit, banana, orange, grapes, kiwi, strawberries and castor oil. Skinlite fruit peeling does not contain abrasive particles, suitable for all skin types. The average cost of the product is 140 rubles per 50 ml.
Peel Therapy Salicylic Acid
Peel Therapy chemical peeling from Beauty Med French company contains glycolic, citric, lactic, hyaluronic, tartaric, malic acids with a total concentration of 10%, extracts of grape leaf, sugarcane and blueberries.
The result of use is desquamation of the upper stratum corneum of cells, elimination of scars, scars, wrinkles, stimulation of skin regeneration, acceleration of collagen production. The price of Peel Therapy Salicylic Acid from Beauty Med is 2100 rubles per 50 ml.
EASY PEEL 5% with chitosan
Gel peeling EASY PEEL from the brand MEDICAL Collagene 3D contains 5% glycolic acid and chitosan, designed for sensitive skin types. The drug exfoliates the keratinized layer of the epidermis, stimulates collagen synthesis and skin regeneration processes, smoothes its surface, softens and moisturizes. The price of acid peeling EASY PEEL - 615 rubles per 30 ml.
New Line Lingonberry Acid Peeling
It contains a complex of acids (glycolic 5%, tartaric 0.5%, lactic 25%), retinol, B vitamins, lingonberry juice. The drug is designed to exfoliate keratinized epidermis layers, improve blood microcirculation, increase the elasticity and firmness of the skin, smooth wrinkles. Designed for sensitive skin. The course of application is 10-15 procedures. The average price is 896 rubles per 100 ml.
Recipes for chemical facial peeling at home
Acid peels for home use can be prepared from improvised and pharmacy products.Such compositions have a gentle effect and a less pronounced effect compared to professional products.
At the same time, they help to prolong the youth of the skin of the face without the risk of injury. Methods of preparation and use of exfoliators for home acid peeling:
- Fruit. Grind the flesh of 1 orange, add 1 tbsp. l honey and ground coffee. Mix. Apply on face for 5-7 minutes, rinse with warm water. The composition can be used in the summer, replacing the citrus pulp with 5-6 apricots.
- Almond. Mix 2 tbsp. l water and almond flour, 1 tbsp. l almond oil, 2 drops of lavender oil and aloe juice. Apply for 10 minutes. Wash off with warm water.
- Lactic. Connect 3 tbsp. l kefir (yogurt, whey) with 2 tbsp. l homemade cottage cheese. Stir, apply to cleansed skin, rinse with warm water after 15 minutes.
- With lactic acid. In 10 ml of distilled water add 0.5 g of lactic acid (30-80%), stir. To apply structure on the cleared, fat-free face skin by means of a cotton pad. Stand for 3 minutes. Wash off with a neutralizer prepared from 250 ml of distilled water and 1 tsp. soda. Apply alginate mask or soothing cream.
Proper preparation for the procedure will help reduce the risk of adverse reactions, complications, increase skin immunity, improve its regeneration and loosen the keratinized surface of the epidermis.
For 14 days you need:
- stop visiting the sauna, swimming pool, solarium, try to be less in the sun;
- start using creams with a UV filter of at least 30 SPF;
- with herpes, undergo treatment with antiviral drugs (Herpevir, Acyclovir);
- stop using scrubs, gommazh, cosmetics containing low concentration acids;
- as prescribed by a cosmetologist, apply creams, lotions with retinoic, glycolic acids (8-25%).
For 7 days you need:
- refuse sugar, wax, laser hair removal, injection of collagen, Botox, curling, hair straightening and dyeing;
- stop taking hormonal drugs, antidepressants;
- start drinking antibiotics to prevent skin infections.
How to do acid facial peeling at home
The chemical peeling procedure lasts from 10 minutes to an hour and is carried out in 4 stages:
- Cleansing the skin of cosmetics, pollution. The product should not contain soap, alkaline substances that worsen the result of peeling. After cleansing, the face must be dried.
- Application of peeling mixture. For one session, 1-2 ml of the composition will be required. The liquid is applied with a brush, cotton pads or sticks along the massage lines, avoiding the area around the eyes and lips. The duration of exposure of the mixture depends on its composition, an average of 2-15 minutes. The exact time is indicated in the recipe or on the packaging of the peeling product.
- Removing the exfoliator. If acids are present, a special neutralizer will be required. It can be prepared independently from 250 ml of water and 1 tsp. soda. The solution is applied to the face with soaking strokes using a cotton pad, aged for 3 minutes, and then washed off with warm water. If the exfoliator does not contain acid, you can just wash it with water at room temperature.
- The use of a care product. After acid peeling, a soothing, moisturizing or anti-aging cream is applied to the face.
The recovery period depends on the depth of exposure to the acid composition; it can last from 1 to 3 weeks. How to care for your skin after a peeling procedure:
- constantly moisturize the skin with creams;
- when puffiness appears, make cold compresses with herbal decoctions of chamomile, calendula;
- until complete healing, do not visit the solarium, beach, sauna, pool, bath;
- refuse to exercise, drink alcohol;
- protect the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays with the help of special creams;
- less be in the cold (in winter);
- maintain the peeling effect with a tonic, serum or mask with low concentrated acids;
- do not use scrubs, cosmetics containing alcohol, retinoids;
- wash with soft anti-allergenic gels, foams;
- remove makeup with cosmetic milk or micellar water;
- protect the skin from accidental injuries;
- try not to touch the face without the need, do not use makeup;
- Do not remove the resulting crusts.
Feasible side effects
After acid peeling, complications can occur that will disappear on their own with proper face care during the rehabilitation period. Possible side effects:
- dark spots.